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How hard is it to move shift lever on outdrive by HAND when sitting on a stand

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  • How hard is it to move shift lever on outdrive by HAND when sitting on a stand

    I have a new-to-me SEI 106 outdrive on a 1988 Sea Ray 250 MR1/Alpha 1. Previous owner said the outdrive was only used one season (Long Island Sound) and then the boat was hauled for winter storage. I didn't believe him at first because the lower unit was barnacle encrusted and the paint looked like it was 20 years old....chipping in huge pieces. Lots of corrosion on the aluminum shell as well.

    Previous oner told me he was having problems shifting in to reverse (boat would stall so he replaced interruptor with no change to issue). I assumed it was a bad lower shift cable as the upper one, when disconnected from shift plate, moved freely. I could not budge the lower shift cable for nothing and the shift cable bellows looked damaged.

    I was able to manually shift the outdrive in to Forward (it was in Neutral) with an open end wrench on the brass shift foot (I had to trim up the drive to get to it). It moved slowly, but the drive finally shifted in to Forward. Shift foot was facing forward, prop locked in one direction and ratcheted in the other. I then spent the better part of the aftrnoon trying to muscle off the outdrive, cursing the previous owner for not maintaining it properly and lying about the age. Turns out, he wasn't lying. Input shaft and u-joints were brand spanking new. It was the paint that had failed in one season and contributed to all the corrosion. Even the factory paint on the collar that slides in to the gimbal housing was shiny-new but chipping off in huge pieces.

    Worse yet, as soon as the drive was off, the lower shift cable operated smoothly. I'm going to replace it anyway, but going from a 'frozen' state to an 'operating' state just by removing the drive makes me wonder if its not an issue with the outdrive instead of the cable.

    So with the outdrive on a stand, how hard should it be for me to manipulate the bronze shift foot? Should I be able to manualy shift the outdrive (FWD, N, REV) just using my fingers and turning the prop or do I need a wrench/screwdriver to use as leverage? I'm trying to figure out if the shift shaft is binding somehow or if this is normal for the outdrive.

  • #2
    The shift lever should move freely, just using your fingers. I would suggest separating the two halves and then you can see if the lower shift shafts is binding, or if it is the brass shift lever in the upper that is binding. While the halves are apart, you can find the serial numbers and call us to see if it is still under warranty.

    Thanks,

    Tech Support

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    • #3
      Thanks for the quick response. Will pull it apart and see what's going on inside. Where would I find the seriel numbers stamped? On the upper or lower (or both)?

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      • #4
        Each half has it's own number. You will fine them in between the halves towards the rear cavities.

        Tech Support

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        • #5
          Shifting problems on the 106.There is a part that should come with the install kit. P

          Originally posted by casadesola View Post
          I have a new-to-me SEI 106 outdrive on a 1988 Sea Ray 250 MR1/Alpha 1. Previous owner said the outdrive was only used one season (Long Island Sound) and then the boat was hauled for winter storage. I didn't believe him at first because the lower unit was barnacle encrusted and the paint looked like it was 20 years old....chipping in huge pieces. Lots of corrosion on the aluminum shell as well.

          Previous oner told me he was having problems shifting in to reverse (boat would stall so he replaced interruptor with no change to issue). I assumed it was a bad lower shift cable as the upper one, when disconnected from shift plate, moved freely. I could not budge the lower shift cable for nothing and the shift cable bellows looked damaged.

          I was able to manually shift the outdrive in to Forward (it was in Neutral) with an open end wrench on the brass shift foot (I had to trim up the drive to get to it). It moved slowly, but the drive finally shifted in to Forward. Shift foot was facing forward, prop locked in one direction and ratcheted in the other. I then spent the better part of the aftrnoon trying to muscle off the outdrive, cursing the previous owner for not maintaining it properly and lying about the age. Turns out, he wasn't lying. Input shaft and u-joints were brand spanking new. It was the paint that had failed in one season and contributed to all the corrosion. Even the factory paint on the collar that slides in to the gimbal housing was shiny-new but chipping off in huge pieces.

          Worse yet, as soon as the drive was off, the lower shift cable operated smoothly. I'm going to replace it anyway, but going from a 'frozen' state to an 'operating' state just by removing the drive makes me wonder if its not an issue with the outdrive instead of the cable.

          So with the outdrive on a stand, how hard should it be for me to manipulate the bronze shift foot? Should I be able to manualy shift the outdrive (FWD, N, REV) just using my fingers and turning the prop or do I need a wrench/screwdriver to use as leverage? I'm trying to figure out if the shift shaft is binding somehow or if this is normal for the outdrive.
          There is a part that should come with the install kit. Part #19- Driveshaft Housing Bushing. If it's not installed, there is too much slack, (loose) in the chamber, requiring adjusting. We've assembled quite a few drives, installing the bushing and never had any problems with shifting.

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          • #6
            We do not use the bushing in our drives. You can install one, but we do not use it, do not supply it, and do not consider it needed.

            Tech Support

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            • #7
              So I was able to get the drive apart. Corrosion had pretty much welded the halves together. What I thought was a gasket turned out to be the paint on the mating surfaces. Drive is corroded inside and out (at least where the exhaust passage is). It looks like there was some marine life gumming up the works on the shift foot. It operates smoothly now.

              I found two aluminum(??) plates in the halves towards the rear cavities attached with double sided tape. I hope these are not the serial number tags because I can't read anything on them.

              Is there a way to call with the former owner's information to see if we can determine purchase date/serial numbers? We served together in Afghanistan and he's not exactly the best record keeper in the world. He was right though. Only one season in the water.

              Second question: I'm currently stripping off all the old paint (what's left of it) and I need to know if the exhaust channel gets painted as well (interior cavity where water pump and drive shaft pass through. I'm assuming so, but just wanted to confirm.

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              • #8
                The serial number is usually stamped into the units also. If you call, we can try looking it up with his info.
                Regarding the paint, yes you want to paint the exhaust cavity.

                Tech Support

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                • #9
                  corrosion

                  corrocion or electrolsys? You may have 12v leaking from the trim sender wiring/broken wiring, chafed wiring.
                  If this is so, remove the trim sender wire at the front of the engine .If wish to use the trim gage there is a wiring mod you can do .
                  It requires 2 diodes to be installed limiting the gage power only when hitting the trim button.

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                  • #10
                    I think you may be on to something. Former owner complained about not being able to trim up drive. Turns out both limit and sender units were rotted out. Wires crumbled in my hands. Will be replacing those too.

                    The trim tab anode was just a nub when I pulled the drive off.

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