Slipping & Squealing!

[Donzi Racer]

We purchased a '86 Donzi 22 classic recently. It has a small block 350 mag and an SE outdrive. When we took it for the first run, it made some noise like gravel rattleing in the bilge area. When it got up on a plane it was fine. It sounded like power steering or belt squeal to me. While on a plane it was ok. It runs great and we ran it ok for a couple of days. When coming in from the 3rd day and it was trimmed out just perfect, right on top of the water at full throttle, I felt the rpms going up and the speed going down, I happen to have me hand on the throttle and came off quick.After coming off plane, I trimmed it down and put the throttle back down agressively but not full throttle. I hear some squelling and feels like slipping going on in the rear. I idled back to the dock which was not far. Later in the day I eased it up on a plane to take it to the boat ramps to get it out of the water. it did fine but only ran it to around 2800 rpm. Took it to my very good shade tree mechanic and he said sounded like a rubber gimble bearing hub had come loose. He said it would have to be replaced but in order to do so, we would need to remove the outdrive and the engine to get at it. That is exactly what it felt like, a rubber hub in a prop slipping so it made sense to me. You have to understand I need directions on which end of a hammer to hold. Well he also told me that people have let them cool down and if not to agressive with them have gotten them to reseat and get some use out of them. Well that is what we did, after a day or two, I would put the boat on a plane by using a lot of trim tab and it would do great as long as you did not stretch ou the trim and get with it. We have used the boat for 15 hours or so since the first incident and it has performed well. Now yesterday, we were almost stranded with it and it would not get up on a plane without slipping and squeling so I do believe it is time to replace this hub or whatever. I forgot to reveal this tidbit of info but the boat is taking on quite a bit of water from somewhere around the outdrive transom assy and has been since we have had it for 3 or 4 weeks now. The previous seller disclosed this to us and we knew the outdrive needed to come off to find out where the leak was coming from. Well the ole bilge pump finally hit its final lick yesterday before we were having the problem and when I lifted the back hatch, it was dang near full. It was up to the bottom of the heads. We keep a manual bilge pump and an elactric with batter clips in the boat and started bilging the boat out. I think the extra weight had quite a bit of effect on the boat being so hard to come up out of the water and put a lot of extra pressure on the hub or whatever you call it.
Finally my question is, after looking at all the outdrive components part companies, I do not see this hub thingy and wondering what I need and what it would cost? Also is it possible to get the hub out on back in without taking the engine completely out of the boat? Thanks for any help we can get. My mechanic is good but just being sure what I can expect. Tom

[Bt Doctur]

hub (coupler)

You can if you can support the engine and move it foward to work on it.
but removing it is a lot easier

[Donzi Racer]

Thanks Doc!

Thanks Doc, I think I am starting to get the idea of where this item is and how hard it is to get to it. Any idea of what the item is called where I can get a price on one? Also is there a complete unit you can buy like the SE outdrive that you can bolt back on the motor instead of having to put the coupler or whatever it is called back into the whatever or wherever it goes into? The only reason I ask is normal mechanical work here in Florida is a bit beyond crazy.
For example, we collect Maserati TC cars, which is a Chrysler to your tax or insurance man and a Maserati to anyone else that ask, except your mechanic. ha ha Anyway we bought a very rare one, only 4 made in the color & engine combo and everything worked fine on the 18 year old car, except the power door locks. I took it into the chrysler dealership in Sanford Fl. and explained I would like it fixed. I had a parts car that had all the parts they may need and they said they could get the parts off the other car. They called and said no problem, they could fix it. I said great and they said they would get me a quote. I thought that funny since it was just replacing a part, why do I need an quote, but said ok. They called back after their mechanic looked it over and said it would only be $1100.00 for them to get the power door locks working. I of couse said, you know what, I believe as short as I am, I can reach over a bucket seat and release that door lock in case anyone wants to go for a ride. Said it would take around 12 hours of labor at $95 an hour. Yee Hi, boys and girls ya'll are awfully proud of your mechanical knowledge down here. By the way when I got ready to sell the car my wonderfully knowledgeable retired mechanic checked the car over for $25 an hour and found that the wire had fallen loose off the passenger door button for the power door lock and put it back on, low and behold, power locks work fine now. My mechanic would not take a dime for that wonderful piece of workmanship. Special place in heaven for him and a special place in Hel Oh nevermind. Ha ha Thanks for any help you can be, Tom mishunaire@aol.com