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  • Upper drive seal

    Hello,
    I had a breakdown on the lake the other day (cracked head ...but not due to heat) anyway when I shut down the engine I could smell gear oil when I opened the engine hatch. I checked the reservoir and it went from full down to the add mark. I thought I had a leak but nothing can be found in the engine compartment. The hose from reservoir to the transom is intact and there were no signs of oil in the water behind the boat. When I got it home I noticed a slight white glazing here and there around the cap on the upper drive.
    I pulled the drive to check the impeller (which I had replaced about 4 months ago and the boat has ran fine since) and drained the gear oil first. Oil looked nice and clean ...no water in it.
    When I separated the upper and lower unit about a half a cup of oil seaped out the side. (I can't ever remember this happening when I changed the impeller before and I change it every year) I turned the upper gearcase upside down to look and it looks like it was leaking down from where the splines connect together.
    I can tell there is a seal right where the lower shaft enters the upper shaft and it sets in a groove right there and it shouldn't be hard to replace, but I can't seem to be able to find the MC number for that seal anywhere.
    It doesn't look or appear to be damaged (I bought my SE116 in 2006) and I am wondering if that is the seal that is leaking or is there another seal further up that I need to replace.

    Also what is this whiteish coloring on top of the cap? Is this thing overheating?
    When I run it on the muffs the water would pump fine in and out of the boat and the boat would hold 165 degrees rock solid. And it has ran fine for the last 4 months so I feel sure the impeller was doing its job of getting water to the engine.

    When it quit on me in the lake the temp was 165 then it would drop down to about 120 for a while then back up to 165 for a while then back down and back up but it never went above 165. It continued to swing up & down like this and finally lost power and died.
    I thought I had blown a head gasket but after pulling the heads (4 yr old remanufactured heads) I found that they had 3 cracks ... all the cracks were where the head shop had welded previous owner cracks in the exhaust valve facing. So that, to me explained the loss in pressure (which caused the temp gauge to drop out) and why, after the engine decided it couldn't run with 3 cylinders leaking in water it died.

    But I wanted to be sure after smelling the gear oil and noticing a drop in the gear oil reservoir that nothing was wrong with the impeller or drive.

    Could something like that have caused the drive to overheat? I would think as long as the impeller is functioning it would also cool the drive properly.

    In your opinion should I just replace the seals at the splines and try it or if I pressure test the upper gearcase would the only 2 holes I need to block off be the one between the upper and lower gearcase (the one sealed with the quad ring) and the hole from the reservoir? If those 2 are blocked off and I pressurize it from the fill/vent plug it should then hold pressure ... is this correct?

    Thanks for any and all advice ... sorry to be long winded but I wanted you to have some background on this.

    Kirk

  • #2
    parts

    http://mercstuff.com/ficheb.htm
    #5 are the 2 seals . but they are installed from inside the upper case not from the bottom.

    Comment


    • #3
      Oil seals

      Thanks,

      I saw those in the diagram before but they dont look like what is in mine.
      Looking from the bottom it appears to be a rubber seal about 3/8" in width just inside the housing, which would place it about an inch below the splines and it has a spring inside it. I can only see one rubber seal though. (unless they are thin and back to back and appear as one) The diagram doesn't depict them as thin though.

      Another thing that has me puzzled, if those seals are leaking why didn't the oil follow the lower driveshaft down and coat the top of the impeller housing? They were dry and clean!

      I think I had better pressure test the upper unit first but I need to know if I have to block off the vertical driveshaft opening to do so.
      I may have to find an old driveshaft to put up in the housing while I test.

      Thanks for any and all suggestions and thanks for confirming the part number.

      Kirk

      Comment


      • #4
        Pressure test results

        OK,
        I went out today and performed a pressure test on the upper unit.
        I plugged the reservoir inlet hole with a piece of rubber and a C clamp and the oil hole to the bottom unit the same way.
        I then measured the vertical shaft (0.870) and found that a Craftsman 14MM deep well socket came close to that. I had to plug the hole in the socket with a wooden dowel and give it one coat of Saran wrap to get it close to the shaft diameter ...I got it to 0.871 which I thought was pretty darn close.
        I then placed it on the hole where they spline together and pumped in 15 psi and it leaks bug time around the socket. So even though the seal doesn't appear damaged it is worn out evidently.
        I know I couldn't have 100 hrs on this drive since I bought it in fall of 2006!

        What could have made this wear out that soon??

        I also noticed on the 116 that there ARE NOT 2 seals ... only 1.
        At first I thought they had left out the upper seal, however when I checked out the diagram on this site it shows 1 seal (SEI # 94-116-07)

        I wonder if they could have gotten a bad batch of seals or something...this should have not done this at under 100 hrs.!

        Was there a change from 2 seals to 1 by Mercruiser? Or did SEI change to 1 seal? I wonder if they have had any others with this problem at this low hours?

        I am going to call them Monday morning and ask about this.

        Thanks
        Kirk

        Comment


        • #5
          Seal

          I wonder if this seal (SEI#94-116-07) is a soft type seal that can be rolled in from the bottom without taking the upper gearcase apart?
          I hope so!
          Kirk

          Comment


          • #6
            seal

            Look at #29 and 30 in this link.This is for the Alpha type. notice the seals are different sizes. 1 seals the shaft to keep th eoil in, the other seals the drive shaft to keep water out.Normally a Alpha will not drop oil by spliing the cases unless th eshaft seal is bad.The oil leakage has nothing to do with the bottom shaft seal.http://mercstuff.com/fichea.htm

            Now go here to the GEN II type(SEI 116). http://mercstuff.com/fichec.htm
            notice both seals are the same. they seal using the drive shaft , split any GEN II and oil will freely leave the upper unit .Any yes, the seals are replaced from the inside.Not that difficult but you do need the spanner wrench.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks

              Yes I thought so, I will have to run down a spanner wrench.
              I read the procedure and it doesn't appear too difficult as long as I go back together with everything the way it came out I should be OK.
              Big torque specs on the retainer ring (200 ft lbs) but with the leverage of the torque wrench I will not have to set it so high.

              I still can only see one 2 sided lip seal in mine though and this site shows exactly that on their diagram (part #10).

              It also appears on this site and the one you sent that when I remove the vertical gears from the top then the seal can be tapped in.
              I was reading in the Merc specs (from Boatfix) and they are talking about using a slide hammer puller to remove a bearing cup which sits above the seal.

              These diagrams look as though once the gear is removed the race hole is big enough to get the seal through without pulling the race (or "bearing cup" as they call it) is that true?

              Thanks for all your help.
              Kirk

              Comment


              • #8
                the bearing cup does not have to be removed to change the seals.both seals face the same direction.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I swear ...LOL

                  There is only one seal in there ... I swear ... LOL
                  Can we post pics on this site? If so I will take a pic and show it.
                  It is good to know that I won't have to take out the race.
                  Thanks Doc.
                  Kirk

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    seal

                    Drop me a line here
                    btdoctur@verizon.net
                    or go here and get the manual #14
                    http://www.boatfix.com/merc/mainmenu.pdf

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      page 3A-14 is where to go

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yep, gottcha

                        I see and understand what you are saying about there being 2 seals but this unit only has the one double lip seal.
                        Here is the diagram from SEI which shows only one seal (#10 in the diagram)

                        http://www.sterndrive.cc/pdfs/se116_upper.pdf

                        But maybe you are saying it would be better for me to install the old style 2 seals than what is in there now?
                        Thanks
                        Kirk

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          3a-14

                          Yes those are the directions I was talking about that say you have to remove the bearing cup before installing the bearing.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ooops

                            I meant before installing the seal...sorry.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              It`s listed as "double lipped" ,that might be the reason for only 1 seal.
                              If there is room I`d install a second one like the merc unit.Most service I`v e done on SEI drives has been the carrier seal replacement. The seal is smaller than the bearing so I still think it can be replaced by itself withuot removing the bearing.

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