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SE306 with '98 Johnson Fastrike 175
My SE306 was received in excellent condition and well-packaged.
Removing the old lower unit was straightforward with the exception of disconnecting the shift pin. Even that is not too difficult; in fact it's easy after you've done it once. I found all I had to do was remove the lower cowling around the power head and then it was easy to see the pin and how to disconnect it from the shift shaft. On my motor, there is no way to disengage the pin just by pushing the shift linkage over as the procedure states. But the pin comes out easily if you push the linkage towards the center of the motor and pull the shift shaft itself towards you at the same time. I'm sure this sounds complicated but it's not...even for a mechanical nitwit like me.
I ordered a new water pump with the SE306, so I assembled that first, which took about 15 minutes (never done anything like this before). The only tricky part of this was the small nylon clip that installs at the bottom of the driveshaft. It took a few tries to get it to line up properly with the water pump.
Installation of the lower unit went smoothly, and the only problem I ran into was with the shift shaft height. There was a slight difference between the old shift shaft height that I had measured and the recommended height in my Clymer manual, causing reverse not to engage. Once I figured out the shift shaft needed to be slightly longer, I rotated the shaft counter-clockwise by 1 full turn where it started to work, and 2 full turns where it worked reliably.
I've just completed my first 5 hours of break-in, and have been careful not to exceed 3500 RPM, and to exercise forward/reverse at least 20 times.
So far everything is going smoothly, and I can't wait bury the throttle.
Good fishing!
Removing the old lower unit was straightforward with the exception of disconnecting the shift pin. Even that is not too difficult; in fact it's easy after you've done it once. I found all I had to do was remove the lower cowling around the power head and then it was easy to see the pin and how to disconnect it from the shift shaft. On my motor, there is no way to disengage the pin just by pushing the shift linkage over as the procedure states. But the pin comes out easily if you push the linkage towards the center of the motor and pull the shift shaft itself towards you at the same time. I'm sure this sounds complicated but it's not...even for a mechanical nitwit like me.
I ordered a new water pump with the SE306, so I assembled that first, which took about 15 minutes (never done anything like this before). The only tricky part of this was the small nylon clip that installs at the bottom of the driveshaft. It took a few tries to get it to line up properly with the water pump.
Installation of the lower unit went smoothly, and the only problem I ran into was with the shift shaft height. There was a slight difference between the old shift shaft height that I had measured and the recommended height in my Clymer manual, causing reverse not to engage. Once I figured out the shift shaft needed to be slightly longer, I rotated the shaft counter-clockwise by 1 full turn where it started to work, and 2 full turns where it worked reliably.
I've just completed my first 5 hours of break-in, and have been careful not to exceed 3500 RPM, and to exercise forward/reverse at least 20 times.
So far everything is going smoothly, and I can't wait bury the throttle.
Good fishing!
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